Alcohol has been the standard base for perfumes for more than a hundred years. The Czech brand nanoSPACE Cosmetics is now introducing an innovation that turns this approach on its head. It presents waterless [n]Parfumes, in which the fragrance is dissolved in neither water nor alcohol, but instead stored in a natural nanofibre membrane. 

According to nanoSPACE, these are the world’s first waterless perfumes, developed and manufactured in the Czech Republic using advanced nanotechnology.

“For centuries, the use of alcohol in perfumes has simply been taken for granted. We asked ourselves whether this is really a necessary and safe solution, both from the perspective of the skin and of future legislation,” says Jiří Kůs, Director of nanoSPACE.

The nanofibre membrane is activated only on contact with moisture, and within a few seconds it transforms into a transparent gel from which the fragrance is gradually released. According to nanoSPACE, this is an entirely new perfume format that has no equivalent on the market so far.

The impetus: skin health and European legislation

One of the main drivers behind the development of alcohol-free perfumes was the anticipated regulation of ethanol in cosmetics at European Union level. An assessment of the health impacts of its long-term use is currently under way in the scientific bodies of the European Commission.

“We knew that the question of alcohol in cosmetics would, sooner or later, have to be addressed. We didn’t want to wait for a restriction or a ban to arrive, so we chose to accelerate our development instead,” explains Ladislav Dubánek, Head of Development at nanoSPACE Cosmetics. “The goal was to have a working alternative ready before the legislation caught up with us.”

At the same time, nanoSPACE’s long-standing experience in developing waterless and low-water cosmetic formats also played a part.

“In cosmetics, we generally try to eliminate water and solvents wherever it makes sense. Perfumes were the logical next step,” he adds.

Why alcohol is not the ideal carrier for fragrance

Although alcohol is a traditional component of perfumes, it brings a number of disadvantages when it comes to skin application. It acts as a powerful degreaser, disrupts the skin barrier and makes it easier for other substances to penetrate the skin.

“Perfumes are a mixture of dozens to hundreds of chemical substances that can be irritating or sensitising. If you use alcohol, you significantly speed up their penetration into the body,” Dubánek points out. “With a nanofibre membrane the situation is different – the fragrance molecules are fixed within the fibres and are gradually released into the surroundings, not into the skin.”

The nanomembrane is, moreover, made from a natural biopolymer that does not irritate the skin and helps to maintain its natural protective barrier.

How a water-activated perfume works

In its dry state, the fragrance is not released. Activation occurs only on contact with moisture, for example when applied to slightly dampened skin.

“Water is essential not only to attach the nanomembrane to the skin, but also to release the fragrance molecules from the fibres themselves,” explains Dubánek. “Gently rubbing the patch also helps mechanically to open up the scent.”

The result is a gradual, controlled release of the perfume without any sudden burst of evaporation.

A new perfume format that has never existed on the market before

According to nanoSPACE, this is not merely a new perfume, but an entirely new perfume format.

“The perfume patch was originally not the aim of our development at all. We were focused mainly on patches for acne, pigment spots, cold sores and skin infections,” says Dubánek.
“The perfumes actually grew out of internal discussions and a desire to do things differently and in an original way.”

No alcohol and no bottle

The absence of alcohol and of any liquid form also brings significant practical benefits.

“For users this means low weight, non-flammability and very thin packaging. You can take the perfume anywhere, with no worries about spillage or restrictions on liquids when travelling,” Dubánek sums up.
“Longevity is individual, and there is no limit to how many patches you use or where you apply them.”

Czech development, global ambitions

The [n]Parfumes range currently includes fragrances for women, men and unisex options, such as Sel & Soleil, Rêverie Florale, Velours d’Épice and Nuit d’Azur. All of them were created in the Czech Republic on the basis of the same nanotechnology platform.

“We are not saying that alcohol-free perfumes will immediately replace the classic ones. But we are showing that a working alternative exists,” Dubánek concludes. “It will now depend on whether the market gives preference to ease of application or to the health and technological benefits.”

Contact for more information

Jiří Kůs, CEO of nanoSPACE

+420 603 417 229

kus@nanospace.cz